Manila in 1842

Port rules

At daylight, on January 13, we were again under way, with a light air, and at nine o’clock reached the roadstead, where we anchored in six fathoms water, with good holding-ground.

Being anxious to obtain our letters, which, we were informed at Oahu, had been sent to Manila, I immediately dispatched two boats to procure them. On their way to the mole, they were stopped by the captain of the port, Don Juan Salomon, who requested them, in a polite manner, to return, and informed the officers that, agreeably to the rules of the port, no boat was permitted to land until the visit of the health-officer had been made, etc.

Official courtesies

The captain of the port, in a large barge, was soon seen pulling off in company with the boats.

He boarded us with much ceremony. A few moments sufficed to satisfy him of the good health of the crew, when he readily gave his assent to our visiting the shore.

Every kind of assistance was offered me, on the part of the government.

He, in the most obliging manner, gave us permission to go and come when we pleased, with the simple request that the boats should wear our national flag. In this way, they might at all times be known, and thus be free from any interruption by the guards.

The boats were again dispatched for the consul and letters, and after being anxiously watched for, returned; every one on board ship expecting his wishes to be gratified with news from home; but, as is usual on such occasions, the number of the happy few bore no comparison to that of the many who were disappointed.

Our vice-consul, Josiah Moore, Esq., soon visited us and gave us a pressing invitation to take up our quarters on shore while we remained.

To him and Mr. Sturges I am greatly indebted for much of the information in the following chapter.

American hemp ships

A number of vessels were lying in the roads, among which were several Americans loading with hemp. There was also a large English East Indiaman, manned by Lascars, whose noise rendered her more like a floating Bedlam than any thing else to which I can liken it.

A Spanish oriental city.

The view of the city and country around Manila partakes both of a Spanish and an Oriental character.

The sombre and heavy-looking churches, with their awkward towers; the long lines of batteries mounted with heavy cannon; the massive houses, with ranges of balconies; and the light and airy cottage, elevated on posts, situated in the luxuriant groves of tropical trees—all excite a desire to become better acquainted with the country.

Manila is situated on an extensive plain, gradually swelling into distant hills, beyond which, again, mountains rise in the back ground to the height of several thousand feet.

The latter are apparently [460] clothed with vegetation to their summits.

The city is in strong contrast to this luxuriant scenery, bearing evident marks of decay, particularly in the churches, whose steeples and tile roofs have a dilapidated look.

The site of the city was not well chosen. It seemed to have been chosen entirely for:

• the convenience of commerce
• the communication that the outlet of the lake affords for the batteaux that transport the produce from the shores of the Laguna de Bay to the city.

There are many arms or branches to this stream, which have been converted into canals. Almost any part of Manila may now be reached in a banca.

In the afternoon, in company with Captain Hudson, I paid my first visit to Manila.

The anchorage considered safest for large ships is nearly three miles from the shore, but smaller vessels may lie much nearer, and even enter the canal; a facility of which a number of these take advantage, to accomplish any repairs they may have occasion to make.

Typhoons

The canal, however, is generally filled with coasting vessels, batteaux from the lake, and lighters for the discharge of the vessels lying in the roads.

The bay of Manila is safe, excepting during the change of the monsoons, when it is subject to the typhoons of the China Seas, within whose range it lies.

These blow at times with much force, and cause great damage. Foreign vessels have, however, kept this anchorage, and rode out these storms in safety; but native as well as Spanish vessels, seek at these times the port of Cavite, about three leagues to the southwest, at the entrance of the bay, which is perfectly secure. Here the government dockyard is situated, and this harbor is consequently the resort of the few gunboats and galleys that are stationed here.

Twin piers

The entrance to the Pasig river is 300 feet wide. It is enclosed between 2 well-constructed piers, which extend for some distance into the bay.

On the end of one of these is the light-house, and on the other a guard-house.

The walls of these piers are about 4 feet above ordinary high water, and include the natural channel of the river, whose current sets out with some force, particularly when the ebb is making in the bay.

Binondo

The suburbs, or Binondo quarter, contain more inhabitants than the city itself, and is the commercial town.

They have all the stir and life incident to a large population actively engaged in trade, and in this respect the contrast with the city proper is great.

The city of Manila is built in the form of a large segment of a circle, having the chord of the segment on the river. The whole is strongly fortified, with walls and ditches.

The houses are built after the Spanish fashion. Within the walls are:

• the governor’s palace
• custom-house
• treasury
• admiralty
• several churches
• convents and charitable institutions
• a university
• the barracks for the troops
• some public squares, on one of which is a bronze statue of Charles 4th.

The city is properly the capital.

• All those attached to the government, or who wish to be considered as of the higher circle, reside here
• But foreigners are not permitted to do so.

The houses in the city are generally of stone, plastered, and white or yellow washed on the outside.

• They are only two stories high, and in consequence cover a large space, being built around a patio or courtyard.

The ground-floors are occupied as storehouses, stables, and for porters’ lodges.

The second story is devoted to the dining-halls and sleeping apartments, kitchens, bath-rooms, etc.

• The bed-rooms have the windows down to the floor, opening on wide balconies, with blinds or shutters.
• These blinds are constructed with sliding frames, having small squares of two inches filled in with a thin semi-transparent shell, a species of Placuna; the fronts of some of the houses have a large number of these small lights, where the females of the family may enjoy themselves unperceived.

Business

After entering the canal, we very soon found ourselves among a motley and strange population. On landing, the attention is drawn to the vast number of small stalls and shops with which the streets are lined on each side, and to the crowds of people passing to and fro, all intent upon their several occupations.

The artisans in Manila are almost wholly Chinese. All trades are local, so that in each quarter of the Binondo suburb, the privilege of exclusive occupancy is claimed by some particular kinds of shops.

The Escolta is the longest and main street in this district. The cabinet-makers are busily at work in their shops. These are first met with. Next to these come the tinkers and blacksmiths. Then the shoe-makers, clothiers, fishmongers, haberdashers, etc.

These are flanked by outdoor occupations. In each quarter are numerous cooks, frying cakes, stewing, etc., in movable kitchens; while here and there are to be seen betel-nut sellers, either moving about to obtain customers, or taking a stand in some great thoroughfare.

The moving throng, composed of carriers, waiters, messengers, etc., pass quietly and without any noise: they are generally seen with the Chinese umbrella, painted in many colors, screening themselves from the sun. The whole population wear slippers, and move along with a slipshod gait.

There are far more Chinese than Malays. The 2 races differ as much in character as in appearance.

• The Chinese is all activity
• The Malay avoids all exertion

They preserve their distinctive character throughout, mixing but very little with each other, and are removed as far as possible in their civilities.

The Chinese, from their industry and perseverance, have almost monopolized all the lucrative employments among the lower orders, except the selling of fish and betel-nut, and articles manufactured in the provinces.

On shore, we were kindly received by Mr. Moore.

The change of feeling that takes place in a transfer from shipboard in a hot climate, after a long cruise, to spacious and airy apartments, surrounded by every luxury that kind attentions can give, can be scarcely imagined by those who have not experienced it.

We needed a heavy piece of blacksmith-work, to prepare which, we were obliged to send our armourers on shore.

The only thing they could procure was a place for a forge; but coal, and every thing else, we had to supply from the ship. I mention these things to show that those in want of repairs must not calculate upon their being done at Manila with dispatch, if they can be accomplished at all.

City of Manila

The city government of Manila was established June 24, 1571 with the title “The celebrated and forever loyal city of Manila.”

In 1595, the charter was confirmed by royal authority. All the prerogatives possessed by other cities in the kingdom were conferred upon it in 1638.

The members of the city council, by authority of the king, were constituted a council of advisement with the governor and captain-general. The city magistrates were also placed in rank next the judges; and in 1686 the jurisdiction of the city was extended over a radius of five leagues. In 1818, the members of the council were increased and ordered to assume the title of “Excellency.”

Manila has been one of the most constantly loyal cities of the Spanish kingdom, and is, in consequence, considered to merit these additional royal favors to its inhabitants.

Commerce

In 1834, the Royal Tribunal of Commerce was instituted. It superseded the old consulate, which had been established since 1772.

The Royal Tribunal of Commerce acts under the new commercial code, and possesses the same privileges of arbitration as the old consulate.

It consists of:

• 1 prior
• 2 consuls
• 4 deputies, elected by the profession.

The three first exercise consular jurisdiction. The other 4 superintend the encouragement of commerce.

The “Junta de Comercio” (chamber of commerce) was formed in 1835.

This junta consists of the Tribunal of Commerce, with four merchants, who are selected by the government. Two of whom are removed annually.

The prior of the Tribunal presides at the Junta, whose meetings are required to be held twice a month, or oftener if necessary, and upon days in which the Tribunal is not in session. The two courts being under the same influences, and having the same officers, little benefit is to be derived from their double action, and great complaints are made of the manner in which business is conducted in them.